Spectacularizing trauma: the function of costume design and makeup in character construction in Kika (1993)

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.24310/fotocinema.31.2025.21476

Keywords:

Almodovar, costume design, makeup, characters, spectacularization

Abstract

This research analyzes how wardrobe and makeup contribute to character construction in Kika (1993) by Pedro Almodóvar, emphasizing how these resources highlight the subjectivity and internal conflict of each figure. A qualitative methodology was employed, based on viewing the film and sequentially classifying (1) the characters' changes in clothing and (2) variations in makeup and special effects, such as hairstyle changes, stains, sweat, cosmetic touch-ups, and scars. The results show that spectacularization operates in different ways: (A) as a device for surveillance and exposure of violence in the media discourse, (B) as a way to showcase the film’s creative talents, and (C) as a mode of creation where the studied elements have narrative purposes related to identity conflicts, experienced traumas, and the discourses generated by each character. An opposition and convergence of roles is observed between the female characters, caught between victimization and regeneration, and the male characters, who represent a controlling gaze through a phantasmagorical institutionalization. These differences highlight the tensions between public and private discourse according to the televisual apparatus, the fashion system, and beauty models, while problematizing the boundaries between spectacularization and invisibilization.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Metrics

Metrics Loading ...

Publication Facts

Metric
This article
Other articles
Peer reviewers 
3
2.4

Reviewer profiles  N/A

Author statements

Author statements
This article
Other articles
Data availability 
N/A
16%
External funding 
N/A
32%
Competing interests 
N/A
11%
Metric
This journal
Other journals
Articles accepted 
29%
33%
Days to publication 
109
145

Indexed in

Editor & editorial board
profiles
Academic society 
N/A
Publisher 
Universidad de Málaga

Author Biography

Álvaro Navarro-Gaviño, Universidad Complutense de Madrid

Doctorando en el grupo de investigación Género, Estética y Cultura Audiovisual (GECA) de la Universidad Complutense de Madrid, especializado en la investigación de la moda y la indumentaria en el ámbito fílmico y audiovisual. Actualmente en el marco del Programa de Formación de Profesorado Universitario (FPU 2022) del Ministerio de Ciencia, Innovación y Universidades de España, también becario JAE INTRO en el Estudio de Historia y Ciencias Sociales del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC). Poseo una formación previa en estudios LGBTIQ+, Bellas Artes y comunicación audiovisual, con experiencia docente y de investigación en diversas instituciones académicas y proyectos interdisciplinarios.

https://scholar.google.es/citations?user=w7lOp3YAAAAJ&hl=es

References

Amaro Martos, I. (2015). La fábrica Almodóvar: vestuario al servicio del cine. En M. E. Camarero Calandria & M. Marcos Ramos (Coords.), III Congreso Internacional Historia, arte y literatura en el cine en español y portugués: Hibridaciones, transformaciones y nuevos espacios narrativos (Vol. 2, pp.74-85). [Comunicación en congreso]. Salamanca.

Bruzzi, S. (1997). Undressing Cinema: Clothing and Identity in the Movies. Routledge.

Church Gibson, P. (2015). Marilyn and her female audiences: Consumption, transgression, emulation. Film, Fashion & Consumption, 4(2–3), 159–175. https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc.4.2-3.159_1

Caballero Gálvez, A. A. & Zurian Hernández, F. A. (2016). Machos violentos y peligrosos. La figura del maltratador en el cine almodovariano. Revista Latina De Comunicación Social, 71, 853–873. https://doi.org/10.4185/RLCS-2016-1124

Chatman, S. (1978). Story and discourse: Narrative structure in fiction and film. Cornell University Press.Chatman, S. (1978). Story and discourse: Narrative structure in fiction and film. Cornell University Press.

Davies, C. (2017). What lies beneath: Fabric and embodiment in Almodóvar’s The Skin I Live In. Film, Fashion & Consumption, 6(1), 65–79. https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc.6.1.65_1

De Lauretis, T. (1987). Technologies of Gender: Essays on Theory, Film, and Fiction. Indiana University Press. http://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt16gzmbr

Entwistle, J. (2023). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory (3rd ed.). Polity Press.

Fernández, D., & Jácome, D. (2018). Vestir al personaje: Vestuario escénico, de la historia a la ficción dramática. Ediciones Cumbres.

García-Ramos, F.J., De las Heras, D., Navarro-Gaviño, Á. (2024). The body as archive: A study of Calvin Klein One/Be ‘Altered States’ perfume campaign (1995) through the Somatheque model. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 11 (1), pp.127-144. https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00109_1

Gilligan, S. & Collins, J. (2021). Fashion‑forward killer: Villanelle, costuming and queer style in Killing Eve. Film, Fashion & Consumption, 10(2), 45‑62. https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00030_1

Gaultier, J. P. (2022). Cine y moda por Jean Paul Gaultier. Fundación “la Caixa”.

Gómez Gómez, A. (2012). El modelo de televisión en Pedro Almodóvar. Cine vs. televisión. Fonseca, Journal of Communication, 4(4), pp.61–81. Recuperado a partir de https://revistas.usal.es/cuatro/index.php/2172-9077/article/view/12048

Guarinos V. y Sedeño-Valdellós A. (2024). Masculinidades opuestas. Violencias y sensibilidades en la construcción de protagonistas en Cesc Gay y Rodrigo Sorogoyen. Estudios LGBTIQ+, Comunicación y Cultura, 4(2), pp.3-13. https://doi.org/10.5209/eslg.98531

Iturbe Tolosa, A. (2020). La presencia estética y discursiva de la televisión en el cine de Pedro Almodóvar. Fonseca, Journal of Communication, (21), pp.1-18. https://doi.org/10.14201/fjc202021149165

Jiménez de las Heras, J. A. (2010). Kika (1993). En A. Castro (Ed.). Las películas de Almodóvar (pp. 155‑174). Ediciones JC.

Kaplan, E. A. (1983). Women and film: Both sides of the camera. Methuen

Lev, L. (2013). Our rapists, ourselves: Women and the staging of rape in the cinema of Pedro Almodóvar. En M. D'Lugo & K. M. Vernon (Coords.), A companion to Pedro Almodóvar (p. 203). Wiley-Blackwell. https://doi.org/10.1002/9781118325360.ch9

Mida, I. y Kim, A. (2015). The Dress Detective: A Practical Guide to Object-Based Research in Fashion. Bloomsbury. https://doi.org/10.5040/9781474244015

Navarro Gaviño, Á. y Muñoz Torrecilla, N. (2024). La “corporalidad vestida” en la filmografía de Pedro Almodóvar. Usos y discursos de la edad y la indumentaria en el cine queer. Miguel Hernández Communication Journal, 15, 139-160. https://doi.org/10.21134/mhjournal.v15i.2098

Paulicelli, E. (2025). Fashioning: Women and gender in film and fashion. Journal of Italian Cinema & Media Studies, 13(1–2), 169–179. https://doi.org/10.1386/jicms_00258_2

Pérez, J. (2018). Significant Outfits: Almodóvar Wears Chanel. MLN, 133(2), pp.336-356. https://dx.doi.org/10.1353/mln.2018.0022

Smith, P. J. (2002). Kika: Vision Machine. In B. Teuber & H. Weich (Ed.), Iberische Körperbilder im Dialog der Medien und Kulturen(pp. 295-304). Frankfurt a. M., Madrid: Vervuert Verlagsgesellschaft. https://doi.org/10.31819/9783964567123-017

Tasker, Y. (1993). Spectacular bodies: Gender, genre and the action cinema. Routledge.

Turnes, C. (2020). Moda y Vestuario: universos paralelos con infinitas posibilidades de encuentro. Cuadernos Del Centro De Estudios De Diseño y Comunicación, 100. 155-165. https://doi.org/10.18682/cdc.vi100.3992

Uhlirova, M. (2022). On fire: When fashion meets cinema. En K. Stevens (Ed.), The Oxford handbook of film theory (ed. online). Oxford University Press. https://doi.org/10.1093/oxfordhb/9780190873929.013.20

Zecchi B. (2015). El cine de Pedro Almodóvar: de óptico a háptico, de gay a ‘new queer’. Área Abierta. Revista de comunicación audiovisual y publicitaria, 15(1), 31-52. https://doi.org/10.5209/rev_ARAB.2015.v15.n1.47590

Zurian, F. A., Navarro Gaviño, Á., & García-Ramos, F. J. (2023). Nuevas masculinidades en el audiovisual de moda: El caso de Palomo Spain. Revista Prisma Social, 40, 4-29. https://revistaprismasocial.es/article/view/4934

Published

2025-07-07

How to Cite

Navarro-Gaviño, Álvaro. (2025). Spectacularizing trauma: the function of costume design and makeup in character construction in Kika (1993). Fotocinema. Revista científica De Cine Y fotografía, (31), 209–234. https://doi.org/10.24310/fotocinema.31.2025.21476